Welcome to our blog, we are here to share our love and knowledge for sewing, embrodiery, and quilting etc.
Feel free to send us ideas and tips!
|Posted by email@example.com on March 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM||comments (4)|
Types of sewing threads and uses
Knowing the properties of the threads will help you to decide the usefulness and desirability of using them for your specific project. The following list with explanations will help you choose a thread that is suitable for your project:
Cotton thread: The usual cotton thread found on reels in most haberdashery and craft stores is ideal for basic sewing. Most cotton threads are mercerized, a coating that lets the dye take more easily and results in a lustrous appearance. This cotton has limitations, however, as it has no "give" and can break if used on fluid fabrics, such as stretch knit fabric. On the plus side, cotton is ideal for delicate fabrics and projects, such as lingerie and sheer fabrics.
All-purpose cotton - a medium thickness cotton (size 50) is suitable for sewing a wide range of projects using lightweight to medium cotton, linen and rayon fabrics.
Stranded cotton - this is made of six strands that have been woven together loosely. These are usually used in embroidery and are often best unwound prior to use or the end result will be too thick, although with wider weave fabrics, using all strands can sometimes be very effective.
Coton perlé - this thread cannot be divided and is used in embroidery projects to produce a neat sheen.
Cotton à broder - an embroidery cotton in varying weights. It has a smooth quality.
Tatting thread - not a separate thread as such, but the type of cotton required for tatting is very specialized. It should be highly mercerized and tightly twisted, so that it is very firm and smooth.
Flower thread - this has a matte sheen and is soft. This thread is ideal for embroidery projects that require a rustic, old-fashioned look, particularly samplers on fine linen. It is only suitable for fabric with a small count.
Quilting thread - this is all-cotton thread that is coated for ease of movement through quilt fabric and batting. Obviously, this is ideal for quilting projects.
Polyester threads: These are strong threads that have excellent give for sewing projects. They tend to come in an all-purpose weight (size 50); they often have a wax or silicone finish that allows the thread to slip through fabric with little friction. This is suitable for most machine and hand sewing projects. This thread is suitable for fabrics with stretch in them and is especially good for woven synthetics, knits and stretch fabrics. The appearance of this thread will be waxy or shiny, not matte like plain cotton.
All-purpose thread - this is cotton-wrapped polyester thread and is widely available for sewing. This is suitable for using with most fabrics and is cheap and easily obtainable. It is not, however, a good thread to use for embroidery projects.
Invisible thread - this is similar to fishing line. It's strong and it's invisible, making it ideal for projects where you need the sewing to be strongly kept in place and hidden at the same time.
Heavy duty: Heavy duty thread is ideal for heavy duty fabrics, such as those used in soft furnishings like upholstery and window dressings, vinyl, and coat fabrics. This is usually around size 40 and can be made from polyester, cotton-wrapped polyester, or cotton.
Rayon threads: Rayon embroidery thread works well to create flat stitches where cotton embroidery thread might stand too high.
Nylon threads: This is a strong thread that is suitable for using on light to medium weight synthetic fabrics. It is a fine thread, usually in size A.
Silk threads: Silk is a fine thread that is ideal for a range of fabrics, although silk is often reserved for embroidery work, same for silk ribbon. This strong thread is ideal for sewing on silk and wool, and for for basting all fabrics. The benefit is that silk threads do not leave holes and it is very flexible. An excellent tailoring thread.
Silk floss - this thread has a high sheen. It is also known as Japanese silk. It comes untwisted and can be used as it is, or divided to make even finer stitches. This thread is suitable for embroidery projects and for using on silk fabric projects. Although strong, it is delicate to work with, so it is vital to have trimmed fingernails to avoid catching and tearing.
Twisted silk - this thread consists of several strands of silk twisted together; again it is ideal for embroidery and can be used as it is, or separated into smaller threads.
Stranded silk - these threads have a sparkling look and can be separated into strands for sewing in embroidery projects.
Silk ribbon - silk ribbon is used for silk ribbon embroidery, both as projects in their own right, and for decorative projects such as on handbags, tops, skirts, etc. and for hair accessories.
Wool threads: Wool threads tend to be used for embroidery projects and for blankets (using blanket stitch). Wool works best with heavy fabrics, such as wool, or canvas.
Persian wool - Persian wool consists of three strands. You can use the three strands together or separate the threads to use singly. Whether or not you separate the threads will depend on the project and the thickness of the fabric being sewn.
Tapestry wool - this wool is not as thick as the Persian wool. It is not dividable.
Crewel wool - this is the finest of the wool threads. It is ideal for crewel embroidery projects. While it is fine, you can weave it into a thicker thread by twisting with more threads.
Machine threads: These are the threads inserted into a sewing machine.
Bobbin threads - this is an affordable thread that goes on the bobbin; it is commonplace for use on sewing machines and is used for a wide variety of general sewing projects made on the sewing machine.
Variegated thread - these threads are dyed different shades, the variegation repeating along the length of the thread in an even manner. Suitable generally for embroidery projects or colorful sewing projects, such as crazy quilt jackets, etc.
Metallic threads: Metallic threads are used for goldwork embroidery and for embellishment on items such as handbags. The colors are gold, silver, and copper.
Purl thread - this thread is hollow. Also twist thread and pearl purl
Japan thread - this is a very fine metallic thread that usually requires two threads used at the same time.
Purchase quality thread. Cheap thread is cheap thread and will not last. Quality thread costs more but is definitely worth it to ensure the quality and durability of your project in the long-run, as well as making the stitching process easier and more enjoyable, especially in the case of embroidering.
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on March 10, 2019 at 7:55 PM||comments (1)|
Labeling and displaying your quilts is a very important quilt care tip that often goes overlooked.The purpose of labeling is documentation, so as the quilt is handed down in the family you will know who made it and when, who it was made for, the pattern name, or any history surrounding quilt.
I wish I had been more alert to labeling when I had begun quilting. To often in the shop we come across beautiful quilts that where never labeled, they have a since of mystery to them. Where did it come from? How old is it? who made it and why? Was it a gift? Is it from your family? Maybe its store bought!!!!???
My favorite way to label a quilt is to have one custom embroidered.
Do not forget to leave your first and last name, year, who it was made for!
If you choose to do the custom embroidery you can choose your fabric, the color, and font.
I know my handwriting is hard to read!
PLUS if you use a marker or pen with time it may fade.
THINK OF THE FUTURE!
|Posted by email@example.com on February 16, 2018 at 6:55 PM||comments (1)|
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. These can be made from scratch or purchased like the sewing patterns in the photo above.
Right and Wrong Side of Fabric
Often patterns or sewing directions will refer to the "right" and "wrong" side of fabric. The "right" side is the printed side of the fabric, it is usually the most vibrant of the sides. The "wrong" side typically looks like a faded version of the right side, fabrics with obvious patterns are easier to distinguish right and wrong sides apart from each other.
A raw edge is, basically, the edge of the fabric that hasn’t had anything done to it after cutting.
The distance between the stitching line and the raw edge of a piece of fabric. Most commercial patterns have a 5/8″ seam allowance.
This secures the beginning and ending of sewing projects. When you "backstitch," you sew forwards a few stitches, then you sew in reverse for a few stitches. After doing this, you continue on with your project in the forward motion. This creates a "tie" and keeps your hard work from unraveling.
Long stitches that temporarily hold your fabric in place. The longer the length of the stitches makes them easier to remove once the basteing is no longer needed. This stitch is often done to hold fabric in place before final sewing is done.
Most machines have a button or dial that allows you to change stitch length, this is the amount of space between each stitch.
Finishing seams is important for your project to stay together without unraveling. For sturdy, heavier fabrics, trimming with pinking shears is sufficient. (These are the scisssors with little "teeth," that cut out triangles in a row). With lighter fabrics, running a zig-zag stitch next to the cut edge will prevent unraveling.
Selvage is the self-finished edge of fabric. The selvages are located on either finished edge of fabric and are made while the fabric is being manufactured, usually on a loom.
The grainline runs parallel to the selvage.
The cross grain runs perpendicular to the selvage.
True bias is a cut made on an angle, 45 degrees to the selvage. This direction allows for the most stretch. Bias refers to any line diagonal to the crosswise and lengthwise grains.
If you ever have any sewing, quiling, or embroidery questions please call us at (318)869-1739.
Thank you for reading our blog,
The Sewing Shop
1267 Shreveport Barksdale HWY
Shreveport, LA 71105
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on September 12, 2017 at 5:55 PM||comments (1)|
We've been talking about going to sewing retreats and we thought we could help you out by providing a free list of essentials to bring along with you for your fun sewing, embroidery, and/or quilting getaway!
• Sewing/embroidery/quilting machine
• Power cord
• Foot control
• Extension cord
• All needed sewing accessories (feet, bobbins, spool caps, extra needles, etc.)
• Sewing machine maintenance kit
• Sewing project pattern(s) and/or embroidery design(s)
• Item(s) to be embroidered
• Fabric for sewing project
• Scissors (fabric, trimming, appliqué, etc.)
• Pins and pin cushion
• Seam ripper
• Measuring tape
• Rotary cutter
• Cutting mat
• Otto light
• Toiletry items
• Refillable water bottle
• Chair cushion
• Backup machine
Feel free to comment if you have any advice, tips, and/or tricks!
|Posted by email@example.com on May 18, 2017 at 2:55 PM||comments (0)|
How to Take Body Measurements
Checking your measurements is the first and probably the most important thing to do before you start making anything. If you’re using a pattern, compare them with the size guide on the back. (Store bought sizes and pattern sizes will not run the same!)
Once you’ve taken your measurements, make a note to refer to when you need them again; sometimes it is a pain if you do not have a helping hand!
Tips Before you start taking body measurements:
- It is best to not be wearing baggy clothing during the measurment process; you would not want to add on a few inches!
- On the other hand, try not to pull your tape measure tightly; causing your garment to come out to small. When you are finished sewing it will be a whole lot easier to take in a project than it would be to add room.
- It is best to use a plastic tape measure, with time the fabric kind tends to stretch.
-Do not be afraid to ask for help! With certain spots it maybe hard to look around to see the measurment itself, or you may have to bend or twist funny throwing the whole measurment off.
-It is best to stand straight with your shoulders relaxed in front of a full length mirror.
***If you have any problems or questions stop by and see us at the The 1 Sewing Center in Shreveport Lousiana in the shreve City shopping center. Or feel free to call the store at 318-869-1739***