Welcome to our blog, we are here to share our love and knowledge for sewing, embrodiery, and quilting etc.
Feel free to send us ideas and tips!
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on February 16, 2018 at 6:55 PM||comments (6)|
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. These can be made from scratch or purchased like the sewing patterns in the photo above.
Right and Wrong Side of Fabric
Often patterns or sewing directions will refer to the "right" and "wrong" side of fabric. The "right" side is the printed side of the fabric, it is usually the most vibrant of the sides. The "wrong" side typically looks like a faded version of the right side, fabrics with obvious patterns are easier to distinguish right and wrong sides apart from each other.
A raw edge is, basically, the edge of the fabric that hasn’t had anything done to it after cutting.
The distance between the stitching line and the raw edge of a piece of fabric. Most commercial patterns have a 5/8″ seam allowance.
This secures the beginning and ending of sewing projects. When you "backstitch," you sew forwards a few stitches, then you sew in reverse for a few stitches. After doing this, you continue on with your project in the forward motion. This creates a "tie" and keeps your hard work from unraveling.
Long stitches that temporarily hold your fabric in place. The longer the length of the stitches makes them easier to remove once the basteing is no longer needed. This stitch is often done to hold fabric in place before final sewing is done.
Most machines have a button or dial that allows you to change stitch length, this is the amount of space between each stitch.
Finishing seams is important for your project to stay together without unraveling. For sturdy, heavier fabrics, trimming with pinking shears is sufficient. (These are the scisssors with little "teeth," that cut out triangles in a row). With lighter fabrics, running a zig-zag stitch next to the cut edge will prevent unraveling.
Selvage is the self-finished edge of fabric. The selvages are located on either finished edge of fabric and are made while the fabric is being manufactured, usually on a loom.
The grainline runs parallel to the selvage.
The cross grain runs perpendicular to the selvage.
True bias is a cut made on an angle, 45 degrees to the selvage. This direction allows for the most stretch. Bias refers to any line diagonal to the crosswise and lengthwise grains.
If you ever have any sewing, quiling, or embroidery questions please call us at (318)869-1739.
Thank you for reading our blog,
The Sewing Shop
1267 Shreveport Barksdale HWY
Shreveport, LA 71105
|Posted by email@example.com on September 12, 2017 at 5:55 PM||comments (1)|
We've been talking about going to sewing retreats and we thought we could help you out by providing a free list of essentials to bring along with you for your fun sewing, embroidery, and/or quilting getaway!
• Sewing/embroidery/quilting machine
• Power cord
• Foot control
• Extension cord
• All needed sewing accessories (feet, bobbins, spool caps, extra needles, etc.)
• Sewing machine maintenance kit
• Sewing project pattern(s) and/or embroidery design(s)
• Item(s) to be embroidered
• Fabric for sewing project
• Scissors (fabric, trimming, appliqué, etc.)
• Pins and pin cushion
• Seam ripper
• Measuring tape
• Rotary cutter
• Cutting mat
• Otto light
• Toiletry items
• Refillable water bottle
• Chair cushion
• Backup machine
Feel free to comment if you have any advice, tips, and/or tricks!
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on May 18, 2017 at 2:55 PM||comments (0)|
How to Take Body Measurements
Checking your measurements is the first and probably the most important thing to do before you start making anything. If you’re using a pattern, compare them with the size guide on the back. (Store bought sizes and pattern sizes will not run the same!)
Once you’ve taken your measurements, make a note to refer to when you need them again; sometimes it is a pain if you do not have a helping hand!
Tips Before you start taking body measurements:
- It is best to not be wearing baggy clothing during the measurment process; you would not want to add on a few inches!
- On the other hand, try not to pull your tape measure tightly; causing your garment to come out to small. When you are finished sewing it will be a whole lot easier to take in a project than it would be to add room.
- It is best to use a plastic tape measure, with time the fabric kind tends to stretch.
-Do not be afraid to ask for help! With certain spots it maybe hard to look around to see the measurment itself, or you may have to bend or twist funny throwing the whole measurment off.
-It is best to stand straight with your shoulders relaxed in front of a full length mirror.
***If you have any problems or questions stop by and see us at the The 1 Sewing Center in Shreveport Lousiana in the shreve City shopping center. Or feel free to call the store at 318-869-1739***
|Posted by email@example.com on April 2, 2017 at 12:05 AM||comments (0)|
Please don't be overwhelmed with the list below! We are going to share all of the different stabilizers available, but first we will tell you what we use on a regular basis and they'll be bolded below. We use these four different stabilizers on a daily basis: medium tearaway, medium cutaway, no show cutaway, and water soluble topping.
TEARAWAY - used as a stabilizer for items you will see the back of
- Light Firm Tearaway: Used for low density stitch counts on stable fabrics. Since it is a traditional firm tearaway, it's crisp and easy to tear away and will tear neatly around the edge of the stitched area.
- Medium Firm Tearaway: Used for light to medium stitch densities on stabel to semi stable fabrics. Since it is a traditional firm tearaway, it's crisp and easy to tear away and will tear neatly around the edge of the stitched area.
- Heavy Firm Tearaway: Ideal for medium to heavy stitch counts on stable to semi-stable fabrics. Since it is a traditional firm tearaway, it's crisp and easy to tear away and will tear neatly around the edge of the stitched area.
- Medium Soft Tearaway: Designed for light to medium stitch counts. A good all-purpose tearaway that is ideal for woven materials . Since it is a soft tearaway, it is more pliable and holds larger stitch counts that traditional firm tearaways.
- Heavy Soft Tearaway: Ideal for high-density stitch counts on stable fabrics. Since it is a soft tearaway, it is more pliable and holds larger stitch counts that traditional firm tearaways.
- Tear and Wash: This dissolves in the washing machine. More than one washing may be needed for complete removal. Ideal for towels or linens where the back side of the embroidery is visible.
- EX Tear Flame Retardant: a medium weight perforated tearaway with a soft feel, making it ideal for use on children's clothes. Tears easily and cleanly.
CUTAWAY - used for anything with stretch, all garments, and items you will not see the back of
- Light Cutaway: Provides maximum stability. Must be CUT for garments. The light weight is ideal for use on medium to heavy knits with low stitch count.
- Medium Cutaway: Provides maximum stability. Excellent for medium weight fabrics and medium stitch counts. Great for fleece, pique knits, and other stretchy fabrics.
- Heavy Cutaway: Provides maximum stability on heavyweight fabrics such as heavy fleece and jackets. Used for large stitch counts.
- No Show: Soft, sheer, stable and translucent nylon reinforced backing. Ideal for lightweight, light colored fabrics. No more "ring around the embroidery." Can be used with medium tearaway for added stability.
- Fusible No Show: translucent mesh, lightweight cutaway stabilizer, which will adhere to your material with a low setting on your iron. Ideal for embroidery on nylon, silks, or other slippery items.
- Water Soluble Topping: plastic topping used on the top side of fabrics sich as terrycloth, velour, loosely knit pique, sweaters, corduroy, fleece, and velvet. It improves the embroidery quality by preventing the stitches from sinking into the fabric. Tears away the excess topping when finished and use a light mist of water to dissolve the remaining topping and rub.
- Peel'N Stick: An adhesive tearaway stabilizer used for items that won't fit in a standard hoop. No need for spray adhesives.
- Fuse'N Tear: ideal for knits and stretchy fabrics. Eliminates shifting, sliding, and puckering of material. Excess will tear away when finished with embroidery, while leaving no sticky residue.
- Sew'N Wash: Soft stable fabric designed to dissolve in water. Ideal for sewing on lace or for "free standing" embroidery.
- Adhesive Sew'N Wash: soft stabe fabric designed to dissolve in water, with an adhesive on one side. Provides additional atabilization when embroidering on lace or "free standing" embroidery.
- Fuse So Soft: a lightweight tricot with a permanent fusible on one side. Excellent for quilting when a permanent stabilizer is needd or as a baching behind embroidery for a soft feel against skin (sensitive skin of for children).
- Fuse'N Stick: One side has a low-melt adhesive activated by a medium setting on an iron while the other contains a pressure sensitive adhesive protected by a paper backing. Ideal for appliques.
- Sew'N Heat: a clear stabilizer used for fabrics not conducive to moisture such as silk or wool.
Remember, these are just the stabilizers that are available for you, however you do not need to use all of them for success. As before mentioned, we only typically use four of the above options!
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on February 19, 2017 at 8:40 PM||comments (1)|
TYPES OF EMBROIDERY
For most people when they think of embroidery all they can picture is a 3 letter monogram or a small baby name on a blanket or something along those lines. I am here to tell you there is WAY more to embrodiery and sewing then just simple names and monograms. At The 1 Sewing Center we have embroidered on everything from a piece of toilet paper to a carhart boot, and everything in between, literally. From baby bags to biker patches. From buisness shirts to bridal parties. Ok, you get the point. Not only can you embroidery on a variety of different items, but there is also different types of embroidery that you can choose from.
Here is a list of the most popular types of designs:
3-D: A stand-alone design created by stitching on a water soluble stabilizer, that is stitched to the project after the embroidery is completed creating a 3-D apperance.
3-D PUFFY FOAM: 3D foam (3D Puff) is a technique where foam is inserted under the top stitch to raise the surface, giving a three-dimensional look to your embroidery designs.The 3D foam effect is commonly used on garments that don’t require much washing. Apparel like caps, jackets and other outerwear are pieces that are best suited for this technique.
APPLIQUE: A 3 step embroidery design where fabric is abhered to stabilizer or another piece of fabric during embroidery.
CUTWORK: A design that features cutaway portions to reveal openings that either remain free or are filled with a contrasted or matching fabric.
FREE STANDING LACE: Stand alone embroidery designs that mimic the look of lace and are embrodiered on water soluble stabilizer. You could also use to make book marks, earrings, or Christmas ornaments.
LINE ART: Simple outline designs that typically use one thread and are less dense than designs that are filled in.
QUILTING: Embroidery designs used for quilt blocks, quilting, or securing quilt layers.